While history has seen the rise and fall of a Lao dynasty enthroned at Luang Prabang, little has changed on the elevated northern fringes of the former kingdom. Decades of war and neglect have done their part to keep this isolated region of Southeast Asia from developing and have unwittingly preserved a way of life that has virtually vanished in neighbouring countries. While the fertile valleys of the Upper Mekong and its tributaries have for centuries been the domain of the Buddhist lowland Lao, the hills and mountains to the north have been the preserve of a scattering of animist tribal peoples, including the Hmong, Mien and Akha. Indochina tours Laos
Anthropologists, gleaning evidence largely from oral tradition, speculate that some of these tribal peoples, such as the Khmu, were actually here before the lowland Lao migrated onto the scene; others, such as the Akha, are relative newcomers. The highlanders make their living by painstakingly clearing and cultivating the steep slopes while bartering with the lowland Lao for anything that they themselves cannot harvest, hunt or fashion with their own hands. It is largely the chance to experience first-hand these near-pristine cultures that draws visitors to the region today.
The far north still has an air of being untamed – and nowhere is this more evident than in Phongsali, a remote, mountainous district where the provincial capital feels as though it hasn’t changed for decades. Improved transport means that it’s now easier to explore the region than ever before, though you can still expect long journeys on endlessly windy roads. The trekking scene in Phongsali is relatively new, which makes it a great opportunity to visit hill tribes that retain a very traditional way of life. Many people come this far north in order to do the amazing boat trip down the Nam Ou, which can take you as far south as Luang Prabang, and allows you to visit otherwise inaccessible Muang Ngoi, long a favourite with visitors to the region wanting to kick back for a few days. An hour south of Muang Ngoi, Nong Khiaw straddles the river, nestling among some of the region’s most dramatic scenery, with limestone mountains all around, and excellent opportunities for exploration. Tours in Laos
Striking east from here takes you to Oudomxai – a town with little to recommend it other than as an important transport hub; from here it’s possible to connect to most other places in northern Laos, as well as Vientiane. The most popular northern town is undoubtedly the tourist centre of Luang Namtha, a good place to relax for a few days if you’re after some home comforts. More laidback is nearby Muang Sing, reached by a stunning road journey through Nam Ha NPCA, a pristine and beautiful protected area of the country. Both towns have become popular bases for trekking, due to their comfortable accommodation and easy access to nearby Akha, Mien and Tai Dam villages.

While boat traffic on the rivers isn’t quite what it used to be, the border town of Houayxai is the popular starting point for the memorable slow boat down the Mekong, via the port town of Pakbeng, to gracious Luang Prabang. It’s now also the starting point for the fantastic Gibbon Experience, which provides a great opportunity to explore the jungle, on foot and by zip line.
Nam Ha National Park
Near the Burma/China border, the town of Luang Nam Tha is the gateway to the Nam Ha National Park, with countless opportunities to explore on foot, by kayak and on mountain bikes.
Muang La & Luang Prabang
A little farther south, you will stumble upon the picturesque area of Muang La and the dramatic valley of Nong Khiaw, before arriving by road or boat at the cultural centre of Luang Prabang. Improved road conditions mean it is now possible to travel through this remote area, but accommodation is simple.
The Plain of Jars is an area that contains more than 300 enormous stone jars, their origins long forgotten and their original use and significance still unclear.
Legend says these vast containers, weighing up to six tonnes, were left over from a victory party after a 6th century war, but the truth is no one knows who made the jars or how they got here: and the enigma grows steadily more eerie as the sun begins to set.
You can fly here from Vientiane or take the longer road journey from Luang Prabang through hill tribe villages and rural scenery.
Vieng Xa caves
Finally, another emerging destination is Vieng Xai. Set among beautiful limestone karsts, the typical mountains of the northeast, this is best known as the home of the cave system used during the Vietnam War as part of the Pathet Lao’s headquarters.
Visit indigenous tribes
Also a little further south is Pakbeng, a small rural village with a colourful local market and only a handful of buildings. Built on a steep slope overlooking the river, it has a central market in which you often see tribal H’muong and Tai from the surrounding villages.
If you are an early riser, it is recommended that you visit around 6 am to experience it at its best.
